Fez’s Medina is one of the oldest. Its 2500+ intertwining streets and alleyways make up the largest urban car-free zone in the world. Step through the old city’s famous Blue Gate and get lost. Seriously. A map of the place looks like a bunch of scribbles on a piece of paper. I’ve loved playing the “get lost” game in cities like Venice, where wandering between houses can bring you to the most picturesque corners, but I didn’t quite trust myself alone in the Fez Medina, so I asked my hostel to find me a guide to lead me through the labyrinth.
A three-hour tour cost 200 dirham. A group can share the cost, but since I was the only one interested that morning, I got a private tour. When hiring a guide for the Medina, it’s incredibly important that you stress that you don’t want to shop. Many guides will take you to shops on the tour because they will earn a commisson from the money you spend there. This can lead to you being heavily pressured to make purchases that you may not want to make. That being said, craftsmanship and workshops are a massive part of the economy and history of the Medina, so it’s good to visit a few.
My guide started by bringing me through the Medina to the famous Madrasa. Though it is not used anymore, the beauty of the religious school’s courtyard has been preserved. Intricate mosaics decorate the walls and verses from the Quran are carved into cedar wood lining the tops of columns. We also visited the oldest university in the world, which is still in use. Students study Islamic Law there and though we couldn’t go inside, we got to peak through the doorway into the courtyard.
From there we moved on to visit some incredible workshops. First we visited one of the famous rug and blanket shops and watched a man at work on a loom. He explained how the styles and patterns in the blankets were tied to the different Berber villages in the Atlas Mountains.
Then we went to a jewelry and silverware workshop, which was stuffed with charms and beads and teapots and lamps. It was huge and overwhelming and all beautiful. Next we visited a pharmacy, where I watched Argan nuts cracked and prepared to be used for oil. The shop owner showed me their collection of perfumes and spices and incense and I left smelling strongly of jasmine.
Our last stop was Fez’s famous tannery, where men were knee-deep in dyes and leather was splayed out to dry in the sun. It smelled pretty bad there and I was happy to be given a sprig of mint leaves to hold up to my nose to cover the scent.
In all of these places, I was offered “the best prices” and assistance with shopping for something nice to take home, but I politely refused and was treated with respect, which I am so thankful for. I know that many people have intimidating experiences in Fez’s Medina, but mine was great. I got to enjoy the overwhelming scents and colors and sounds of the hustle and bustle, without feeling tense. It was a really wonderful way to get a taste of this ancient city’s history and culture!
